Facade Fail

Wood Columns….

Stone Columns…..

Brickwork……

Painted Board……

Flat Roof…….

Pitched Tile Roof……

This House looks like it’s in a competition to get as many different materials in the facade.

It’s a display home……….in an attempt to make it look different it just look a confused mess!

 

For more Fails, and Unusual houses go to What the………………….?

 

What’s The Side View Of Your House?


When most people look at a display home the two first considerations are:

  1. The Floor Plan.
  2. The Front Elevation. (Like the impressive facade in this photo)

Sometimes that works fine when all the houses are in a line, and the same size…….but what about when the side of the house is on show?

For example:

  • Houses on corner blocks.
  • Double storey houses next to single storey houses.
  • Houses on large blocks.

The photo on the left shows the side view of the house, in the top photo, with the impressive facade.

Not only is this a lot less impressive……but as it is the view from the main road its the first impression of the house any visitor gets.

Don’t forget to think about how the sides of a house look when you are looking to build a new house!

 

For similar posts look in the Design Category

 

Garage Doors

Originally garages doors were hinged doors, then tilt and lift doors came in.

More recently the main choice for garage doors is between roller doors or sectional panels.

Roller Doors

Fairly common as its the most used door in commercial applications.

Has the advantage in that its a fairly compact unit although it does need a bit more height to fit the roll over the opening.

Normally fairly draught proof but very hard to insulate.

Sectional Panel Doors

I think these look a bit more classy than roller doors, after all you want to look more like a house than a commercial garage.

They are available in a wide range of styles.

If you don’t have windows in the garage it might be worth having a door with windows to bring a bit of extra light in.

They can be quite easily insulated if your garage is your workshop (or man cave) but are harder to draft proof.

One disadvantage is that the door takes up a lot of ceiling space which restricts where you can put ceiling light.

Remote ?

Last time we built I didn’t bother about a remote opener.

After a couple of years I was served with the ultimatum ” Remote opening or else” (My wife said afterwards “Well worth the money!”)

 

For more posts on garages see: Garage Electrics and How much garage do you need?

More on doors including 24 pages of Check Lists for your new house choices in the‘Selection / Pre-Start Guide’

 

Eaves

If you go back 39 years most houses had proper eaves but now they are less common.

As I travel around I sometimes see new houses with eaves on the front facade but non elsewhere, which I think looks weird.

If you are thinking about ‘eaves’ on your new house here are some advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages

  • The eaves keep the rain off the walls. As well as improving the weather proofing this helps improve the thermal performance of the walls in winter.
  • They will shade north facing windows in summer while letting the winter sun in. (This effect is negligible for windows facing in other directions and only about 50% effective for full length windows and patio doors)
  • Appearance. I think they give a more finished appearance and the shadow line adds interest.

Disadvantages

  • Cost. A typical cost is around $80/m2 so 600mm eaves all the way round a typical house could add around $4,000 to the cost. 450mm eaves will be a little bit cheaper.
  • You can’t build as close to the boundary which can be important if you have a narrow block.

As for me my first Australian house had eaves, but my next house did not so I have a foot in both camps.

I didn’t mind the look of the design without eaves and I built a pergola on the north side for shading.

Are you for, or against, having eaves on your new house?

 

To find out how big your eaves need to be… see Shading Northern Windows

 

Render or Brick?

Rendering popularity comes and goes……………… However I think “Why pay more for a something that is only going to require painting in the future?”

As my old woodworking teacher once told me “There’s nothing wrong with being lazy as long as you are intelligently lazy.

That means getting the job done but saving effort, both now and in the future.”

Positive

Rendering does have its place:

  • It gives a good finish if you are building using Hebel blocks or Foam Panels (See this link: Rendered Foam Walls), which you may prefer to use as they have a better thermal performance than bricks.
  • The render, particularly if painted a light colour, will improve the thermal performance of the walls.
  • You need to do it for some of the Home Builder techniques such as straw bale housing, or even if your DIY bricklaying is a bit rough.
  • Its handy if you are renovating a house and the previous builder has painted the bricks.

Negative

Apart from the exceptions above here’s why I don’t like render as a final finish:

  • Additional cost at time of construction.
  • Is it really hiding the use of leftover bricks from previous jobs and perhaps poor workmanship by the builder.
  • It can look fairly flat and bland in large areas like the house below:

  • Future time cost and effort in repainting.
  • If you get building movement it really shows up, with a crack across a flat plain wall. It’s then very hard to satisfactorily repair and hide the crack.
  • Render really shows dirt, spiders webs,and water stains.

Bricks are making a comeback as people who have rendered 10 years ago now find that the additional cost was only the start.

Having a house painted every 10-15 years is an expense that basically starts at $12K. Personally I’d prefer a family holiday .

Render costs around $20,000 on a 30Sq home, plus painting, plus more for maintenance……Brick veneer requires a wash, at the most, with a low pressure hose.

Some people say the modern Acrylic renders are better than the cement renders but I remain to be convinced.

What do you think?.

 

Whichever you choose the most appropriate Brick Dimensions will make the walls easier to build.

More about selecting finishes including 24 pages of Check Lists in the ‘Selection / Pre-Start Guide’

 

What Are Window Infills

What Are Window Infills?


Well these painted panels above the top of the window in this photo are an example.

This example is not very attractive in my opinion

Finishing up with painted infills like this is often a consequence of not having eaves and/or increasing ceiling height without considering window size (an easy thing to miss if you are building for the first time)

if you don’t like them make sure you check the builders elevation drawings carefully.

Why are they used?

Basically these are much cheaper for the builder than a brick infill as they save both the cost of a lintel and the brickwork.

They also make the construction of the required brick articulation joints for the builder simpler (see Brick Articulation Joints )

Solutions

  1. They can look better if you make them a feature. I once designed a house with painted infills at each gable end of the house. My solution was to use overlapping planks (painted cement sheets) rather than a single panel, and was quite pleased with the look.This  approach could be used if you only realises you have infills late in the building process as you could nail them directly over the existing board.
  2. Another approach particularly for North facing windows is have a small pergola set under the gutter this provides shade and makes the infill less obvious. (see Shading for dimensions of a pergola)

 

 

What’s On The Roof?

A METAL ROOF

This covers zincalume, galvanised steel and colorbond. Following are a few thoughts:

  • In general a metal roof is noisier as you can hear the rain (which I like)
  • They are fairly light so they don’t put as much load on the structure.
  • With modern screw fittings they can be extremely resistant to very high winds and hail.
  • Might get dented but will still be weatherproof in extreme hailstorms.
  • Less likely to leak.
  • Can be laid at lower pitch Which means the roof isn’t as high.
  • They are capable of lasting over a 100 years with minimal rusting.
  • Available in zinc finish or a wide range of colorbond colours. Zinc finish will be best for reflecting heat, followed by lighter colorbond colours.
  • Can be more expensive than tiles.
  • Fitting solar panels will be cheaper and easier on a steel roof.

One drawback is that you will need an external TV aerial and mobile phone coverage may be worse than under a tiled roof.

Tiles

Can be clay, terracotta or concrete. Their characteristics are:

  • Concrete has lower initial cost although some clay tiles and terracotta tiles can be very expensive.
  • Provide better insulation both heat and noise.
  • Heavier.
  • Brittle.
  • Need to be individually screwed down in high wind areas.
  • Wide range of colours.
  • Can add character especially as they age.

I have previously had a steel roof but now have tiles.

If building again I would probably go for metal.

Do you like the sound of rain on the roof?

For Similar posts look in the Design Category

Why I don’t like a Flat Roof!

 

 

House Style or Fashion Victim

Appearance is very much a matter of taste with different people liking different styles, there no right solution.

If I put up a picture of something as the way to go than more people would think I was wrong, than would think I was right.

But here are a couple  of thoughts:

  • Avoid being a fashion victim, by going for the latest builders style, which was designed with the aim of grabbing your attention…………… The ‘WOW’ factor……………. In a year or two the ‘WOW’ gimmick and fashion will have moved on. For example about 30 years ago in Australia there was a trend for white bricks, which looks really dated now.
  • Going for the Victorian look, which seems popular, but can be risky. . . One mistake I have seen is this big two storey Victorian mansion on a small block surrounded by single story modern houses. It looks more like a pub than a home.

I try and go for what you could call a timeless appearance but what’s that look like?

The best suggestion I can make is to walk round an estate near where you live that is around 20-30 years old.

Some of the houses you see will look very dated.

Other will look as though they could have been built a couple of years ago.

They won’t all look the same……………….. just timeless.

Take some photos of the ones you like to help you compare with other designs you come across.

Here are some things you should consider avoiding:

      • Too many different materials. Brick, render, stone, painted wood, stained wood, all on the same façade can look very messy.
      • Different sized windows. The human brain likes to see order and a range of different window heights and widths on the same wall looks confusing.
      • Too many decorative elements.
      • Garage dominating the house.
      • Anything with a structural appearance that looks obviously stuck on.
      • Roof out of proportion with house. Could be either too large or too small.
      • A front façade that doesn’t link in with rest of the house. Some really look as though they have been stuck on the front face, particularly when they stop at the corner rather that continuing to a natural break point.

 What trend do you think will mark a house as a Fashion Victim?

Rendered Foam Walls

This addendum was added to an original Post from 2014 as there has been a lot of publicity recently (late February 2019) about foam panels and certification has been removed from certain types of panels.

A particular issue for apartment blocks has been related to high speed spread across the surface of the panels to other flats.

On a standard house the render should protect the insulation from external flames. (If flames penetrate the plasterboard, from the inside, it is likely that the occupants will either have already evacuated, or be dead before the insulation ignites) n

Nevertheless you should review whether the potential risks from foam panels are acceptable to you.

Original Article

Rendered Foam walls are becoming much more common, particularly in the upper floor of 2 storey homes. They offer a real advantage in situations where it would be difficult to provide adequate suppport for a heavy brick wall (For example when the upper floor needs to be set back from the ground floor)

If you are worried about strength you need to be aware that the real strength of the house is in the frame. (see: House Construction – The Frame)

Construction

  • The Foam boards, which are manufactured with an external mesh face, are fixed to the frame with special galvanised screws that incorporate spreader washers.
  • Joints are sealed with a polyurethane foam and have mesh jointing tape.
  • External corners are reinforced with metal strips.
  • A minimum of 5mm of  acrylic render  is applied, normally in a three layer system.

Polystyrene Foam

There are 2 different types of foam used in this construction method:

  • Expanded polystyrene( EPS) – Good thermal performance but limited impact resistance/structural strength.
  • Extruded polystyrene (XPS) – Similar thermal performance and looks similar  but the production method is different which results in increased impact resistance and structural strength. Higher cost

Insulation values for the various board thicknesses are:

  • 50mm    – R 1.2
  • 75mm    – R 1.8
  • 100mm – R 2.4

Final Thoughts

Although there are some advantages in this system it does require careful detailing and construction otherwise leakage can occur damaging your house.

The advantage of masonry on the lower part of the house is that it is less likely to be damaged by the bumps and bangs of daily life. Once the wall is above head height damage becomes less of an issue and the rendered foam board should be fine.

I’d prefer XPS to EPS.

Although the insulation values are good the builder will most likely want to save the cost of the insulation batts in the frame. If you ask for the wall to include insulation batts you will have an exceptionally well insulated wall at very little extra cost.

 

For similar posts see Insulation

For more about house design see Choosing a House . . . A new E-book for only $4 to help plan your new house

 

Different Roof Drainage

Most of us are used to the traditional Australian roof drainage connecting to down pipes . . . . but this isn’t how everyone sees it.

The Hawaii Solution

Travelling around Hawaii I was quite surprised to see how many houses completely dispensed with any form of roof drainage like this photo.

No Gutters and no downpipes.

OK as long as you aren’t building on Reactive Clay

Not a problem in Hawaii where it is mainly volcanic sands or rock.

The Frank LLoyd Wright Solution


I recently talked about visiting some Frank Lloyd Wright ‘Prairie Houses’ in America.

With the ‘Prairie House; style there was an emphasis on horizontal lines.

To avoid the strong vertical lines of the downpipes Frank just got rid of them.

To collect the rain below each discharge point he positioned a pit like this one.

The only problem is that in the slightest breeze there is going to be a lot of spray.

The Japanese Solution

This system of a chain of cups is a fairly common Japanese alternative to a down pipe.

For small flows the water drains through each cup to the one below it.

With heavier rain the flow runs on the outside of the cups where it is held to the cup by surface tension.

If you can’t get hold of the Japanese cups a simple chain can work just as well.

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