Glanced Light – Wall and Ceiling Imperfections

In certain conditions you can easily see very slight surface imperfections

This is known as ‘Glanced Light’ . . . .  so what does is mean?

Well when light strikes a surface at a flat angle like in this first sketch its said to be a glancing angle.

Because of the angle any imperfections in the surface cause shadows that make the defect more obvious.

The most obvious point where you may notice glanced light is at the joints between plasterboard panels.

Its not uncommon in the joints showing up as bands of a different shade.

In full light like the second sketch these sort of imperfections are less likely to show up.

What’s Acceptable

For the typical project home any imperfection that shows in full light is unacceptable.

In glanced light you should not see screw of nail fixings although joints will most likely be faintly visible.

If you are uncertain go to your builders display house and look at how their ceiling looks.

How To Minimise Glanced Light Issues

  • Specification – In the old days all plasterboard had a skim coat of plaster applied over the whole surface rather than just the joints. Although you can ask for this it will be at a substantially added cost.
  • Workmanship – If the plasterboards are fixed with the joints running towards the windows any joint imperfections will be minimised. A skilled tradesman should then be able to make the joints and fixings holes fairly smooth.
  • Lighting – Pendant light fittings are better than fittings that are closer to the ceiling as they give full light. Avoid windows that go up to ceiling level.
  • Decoration – Matt paints are better than silk finishes. Roller applied paint is better than spray applied.  Alternatively a textured finish to the ceiling will mean the texture covers the joints.

 

To find out more about inspecting your new house see

anewhouse PCI Guide

 

Changing Builders Standard Plans

Most builders will change their standard designs to some extent.

The builder of the last house we built, Metricon, was fairly flexible.

Here are some of the changes that you could talk with the builder about if their standard is close to what you want.

    • Handing. This means swapping the design around so rooms on the left become rooms on the right. Generally this should be available at no cost.
    • Partial handing. This means swapping either the front or the back of the house while leaving the remainder the same. We have done this when we wanted the bedroom and the garage on the opposite sides of the house to the original plan. (Again this didn’t add to the cost)
    • Raising the cill height of windows. We adjusted the cill height of most windows on the south side of the house decreasing the the size . At that time this was a no cost alteration. N.B. The builder will not usually allow any changes to the front of the house.
    • Swapping position of  windows. We wanted to change the position of a patio door with a window, this was a no cost for this as long as the total of windows and patio doors stayed the same.
    • Providing additional internal walls and doors. We wanted this to reduce the amount of open plan living. This was achieved at what we thought was a reasonable cost.
    • Relocating internal walls. This was a no cost alteration.
    • Decreasing the size of  rooms. We wanted to reduce the size of one room by 1 metre which reduced the overall length of the house by the same amount. For this change we made a saving.
    • Additional power outlets, light fittings and switches. These were standard extras.
    • Extra outside taps. Makes watering the garden, and washing the car easiser. These were standard extras.

What have your experiences been when looking to change a standard design?

For changing things see Selection

 

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