In my over 10 years of experience as an architect, I have seen more and more people thinking about doing an architect’s, an engineer’s or a trades mans’s work.
It might be a whole house, a house addition, or just changing the bathroom tiles and they are doing it for two main reasons:
To get it cheaper; or
Because they think “If you want something done you have to do it yourself.”
I am not saying that you can’t do most things, but for a whole house you will need professionals.
For instance you will need a sign off from a registered professional for the following parts of a build.
Structural design.
Electrical Installation
Plumbing
But you may be thinking “Who is going to do a better job for you than you?”. . . Am I right?
Before you set off on your project remember that those professionals have had lots of training and experience so:
Do extensive research to see what others have done in your situation.
Don’t hesitate to ask for advice. There are plenty of places online where you can ask for advice so don’t be shy, it doesn’t matter what others may think of your questions.
If you are looking to do trade work practice on some part of the job that won’t be too obvious
Thank you for reading and please leave any comments or question.
Good luck with the house
Adrian.
Adrian Savi is an architect from Romania. As well as working full-time as a freelance architect for clients in the United States, Canada, Australia, Denmark and Norway he blogs on design and architecture . The house in the picture is from his Portfolio at www.saviadrian.daportfolio.com
When you are planning a custom home costs can quickly run away with the initial budget!
Just watch a few episodes of ‘Grand Designs’ and you will see people with costs out of control!
If you are planning a custom home here are a few thoughts.
Expensive Main Features
Overall Size If you buy Bigger Than You Need its not just the house cost, but the extra rooms you need to furnish
Lots of Different Shapes – Irregular Floor Plans, Unusual Shaped Rooms , Other Than 90 Degree Corners, Complex Roof Shapes (see Photo), all mean that prefabricated components can’t be used and increase both labour costs and risk of mistakes.
Site Slopes – Even with split level houses there will be additional foundation costs and extra area for stairs.
Underground Garages – Structures below Ground Level have to be much stronger and consequently are more expensive.
Large Open Spans – Extra Engineering Design Costs and more complex structures.
Masonry Internal Walls – More expensive than timber frame walled and add to the cost of installing services.
Bushfire Protection – The lowest level of Bushfire Risk can add $10,000, build in the Flame Zone and $100,000 may not be enough.
Expensive Details
Ceiling Corners – Square set or shadow line corners look good but are more expensive than traditional cornices.
Lighting – Downlights everywhere, especially in lighting bulkheads can add thousands.
Expensive Appliances – Some of the kitchens I see have more appliances than a commercial kitchen but are only used for warming up take away food.
Is this overflowing post box telling a thief that they are unlikely to be disturbed?
It used to be easier when I was young as we knew our neighbours and we could ask someone to check the mailbox.
Otherwise we could get a family member to call round every 2-3 days.
These day people seem more mobile and may not live in the same state, or in my case, the same country as relatives.
Working long hours and driving everywhere many people don’t really know their next door neighbour!
Rather than get the cheapest and smallest post box when you move in perhaps you should think about a box Big Enough for several days post (and Junk Mail)
Here is how I would look to get most sustainable performance from this layout.
Orientation
The best Orientation will be with the house facing East.
That means the Family Room, Dining Room, and Kitchen will all face North and be able to look out onto a garden.
The Bedrooms, Bathrooms, and Laundry will all face South and act as a ‘Buffer Zone‘.
If your block faces East you will be able to get similar performance by asking the builder to ‘Hand’ the floor plan (build it as a mirror image)
Shading
In order to keep the Summer sun out of the house, while letting the winter sun in, I would look to provide approximately 1m of Shading to the north facing windows.
This could be either by having the house built with eaves or building a pergola after you move in.
Window Locations
Windows that face East, and especially those that face West, can be a real problem as they get too much sun in summer and hardly any in Winter.
The window in Bedroom 3 would be best relocated to the other external wall.
The Family Room window at the end of the house would be better deleted altogether. There will still be plenty of window area and with one less window the layout will actually be more flexible!
Although the Master Bedroom windows will face East the application of a reflective film, after you move in, will prevent the room overheating in summer.
Window Sizes
Both bedroom windows would be best with a sill at least 1m from the floor level. This will give adequate light but the Smaller Window, and more solid wall will result in better thermal performance.
Laundry Door
The Laundry door in this design is a patio door. By changing to a solid wall with window and conventional door you will significantly reduce the heat transfer.
Overall Effect
Making alterations like these to a builder’s standard design allowed me to increase the energy rating of my last home by the equivalent of 1.5 Stars!