Category: Selection

Passiv Haus

What is a Passiv Haus  (Passive House)?

Well as you might have guessed the term originates in Germany, and relates to a method of achieving more sustainable performance (and lower Energy Bills)

It’s a technique which doesn’t rely on good orientation, high thermal mass and natural cross flow ventilation to provide comfortable conditions with low energy use.

The house on the right, built in Castlemaine by Carbon-Lite, is said to be the first Passiv Haus built in Australia

Some of the key Passiv Haus characteristics are:

High Levels of Thermal Insulation

All  the exterior envelope (walls and roof) of the house are very well-insulated with a maximum Heat Transfer Coefficient, U-value of 0.15 W/m²K (R=6.6)

This is much better than:

    • A typical Brick Veneer Wall – U value 0.51   (R = 1.92)
    • A typical Roof – U value 0.26   (R = 3.91)

Elimination of Thermal Bridges

All Wall openings, corners, connections and penetrations are designed, and constructed, with great care, so that thermal bridges can be minimised.

Highly Insulated Windows:

Typically triple glazed windows will be required to achieve appropriate insulation

Air Tightness of the Building:

Uncontrolled air changes from gaps must be smaller than 0.6 of the total house volume per hour which is much better than 1.0 of the total house volume per hour that would be more typical of a new house.

To achieve Passiv Haus certification involves a test where the house is pressurised using a temporary ‘Blower Door’.

Energy Recovery Ventilation:

Because the house will be quite airtight a mechanical ventilation is required to keep the air fresh and prevent condensation.

Passiv Haus systems have highly efficient  energy recovery ventilation systems

In Winter around 75% of the energy from the exhaust air is used to warm the fresh air again by means of a heat exchanger.

In summer the exhaust air is used to cool the incoming air

The ventilation systems also incorporate pollen and dust filters.

For more information go to the The Australian Passive House Association.

 

Sensor Switches

Fed up with lights being left on!

Why not plan some internal sensor switches for your new home.

Unlike the sensor lights commonly used for outdoors its common to have a sensor switch wired into the lighting circuit rather than a combined sensor and light.

For my last house I installed one in the Walk in Robe, which worked well.

Here are some things that I learned , from experiance, about installing sensor switches.

Location

Field of View

Make sure the sensor has a good view of the most of the room.

There is a temptation to have them mounted in the top back corner. . . . . In Walk in Robes the field of view may then be obscured by a high shelf and/or things stored on the top shelf.

Point into the Room

Its better to point into the room you wish to light.

The mistake I made was the sensor was opposite the door so everytime we, or our pets, walked past the open door the light came on.

Set Up

Most people don’t realise that sensors can be adjusted to improve their suitability.

Time

The time can normally be adjusted between around 10 seconds and 5 minutes.

When I first used the WIR and was looking for my shoes on the floor the light went out after a few seconds as I was below the field of view.

Adjusting the time to around 3 minutes gave a  much better result.

Sensitivity

The sensitivity adjustment affects both the range of the Sensor and the size of the object that is being detected.

A lower sensitivity will avoid pets setting off the lights. (In the case of outside security lights this is really useful in avoid birds and possums causing the lights to continually going on and off)

Lux

 This affects the amount of light at which the sensor will function.

At the lower level the light will only come on when it is completely dark, at the higher level it will come on during day light.

Usually a mid range setting will be best.

Finally

Make sure you choose the best light bulb for the room.

LED bulbs are better than compact fluorescent as they switch on quicker, and are at full brightness immediately.

Also check on Light Colour to check the light you are getting is the best to help you choose the best outfit.

 

For more posts see Electrical or Light Fittings

 

 

Electrical Abbrevations

Looking at an electrical plan, or reading an electrical specification, and wondering what all the abbreviations are?

Well here are some of the more common ones you may encounter, many with links to other posts:

3ph – Three Phase Power
AC – Alternating Current
ACU – Air Conditioning Unit
CB – Circuit Breaker
DC– Direct Current
DH – Ducted Heating Unit
DIM – Dimmer
DGPO – Double General Power Outlet
ECU – Evaporative Cooling Unit
ELCB – Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker
GPO – General Power Outlet
IP – Ingess Protection. Range from a basic IP 30 (standard outlet) to IP67 (fittings to withstand total immersion in water)
JB – Junction Box
LV – Low Voltage
LED – Light Emitting Diode
HW– Hot Water Unit
M – Meter
MSB – Main Switchboard
RA -Return Air (from Ducted Heating/Air Conditioning)
RCD – Residual Current Device
RF – Roof Access
SB – Switchboard
S – Sensor
SEN – Sensor
WP – Weather Proof

See Jargon for more posts

 

Why I Won’t Be Buying Anti-Bacterial Paint

Or Any Other Home Anti-Bacterial Products!

The other night on the television I saw (at least 5 times) an advert for anti-bacterial paint.

Here are five reasons why I think this is marketing hype, and I won’t be buying it:

Personal Experience

It might have been the ‘Good Old Days’ but my children, my wife and I have all reached adulthood in good health without these ‘Wonder Products’.

Increasing Allergies

Since these products became common in the Western World the rate of allergies has boomed. . . . Coincidence? . . . Some people don’t think so!

One of the suspects  of the allergy boom is that reduced exposure to infections in early childhood can lead to an increased risk of allergy in later life.

Whats Wrong with Soap and Water

Various studies including the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) have failed to show there is no real advantage in these sort of products for everyday products.

The Risks of Anti-Bacterial Products

 One of the most common antibacterial products is the chemical Triclosan. Studies have found that this can get into the environment which isn’t a good idea as it can harm plants and animals.

If it can harm animals what is it going to do to me long term?

Are We Creating Super Bugs?

Its interesting that Hospitals, the most enthusiastic users of Anti-Bacterial Products, seem to frequently have problems with so called Super Bugs like Golden Staph.

 

In case you are thinking I am coming over all ‘New Age’ I can tell you I am an enthusiastic supporter of immunisation, and anti-bacterial products in the right place. (e.g. Chlorine in public drinking water supplies has been proven to be a major health benefit)

 

Want to Save money by painting yourself ? . . . Check:  DIY Painting first

 

 

Ingress Protection (IP) Ratings

If you have bought an outside electrical switch, light, power point, or child proof power point, you may have seen it described with an IP rating. . . . but what does the IP numbers mean?

Understanding The Numbers

Well the IP rating (Ingress Protection Rating or International Protection Rating,) consists of two digits. These are defined by the International Electrotechnical Commission(IEC) Standard 60529.

  • The first digit is the degree of protection against the intrusion of a solid object (fingers, needle, screwdriver, or dust)
  • The second digit is the degree of protection against water.

Common Protection Levels

The following are the more common IP ratings encountered.

Penetration by Solid Objects

    • IP 3# – An access probe of 2.5mm diameter shall not penetrate.
    • IP4# – An access probe of 1.0mm diameter shall not penetrate.
    • IP5# – Limited ingress of dust permitted (no harmful deposit)
    • IP6# – Totally protected against the ingress of dust

Penetration By Water

    • IP#0 – No protection against water damage.
    • IP#1 – Protection against vertical falling water
    • IP#2 – Protected against sprays to 15°
    • IP#3 – Protected against sprays to 60°
    • IP#4 – Protected against water splashed from all directions.
    • IP#5 – Protected against jets of water.
    • IP#6 – Protected against strong jets of water.
    • IP#7 – Protected against the effects of temporary immersion in water to depth of up to 1m.
    • IP#8 – Protected against prolonged immersion in water

Although fittings with high IP Ratings are expensive remember they are keeping you safe!

 

See Electrical for more posts

 

Additional Electrical Fittings

Most builders standard electrical fit out is fairly pathetic.

A single batten light fitting and a couple of double power points in each room!

I have even seen single power points!

Typical Builders Prices For Electrical Upgrades

Downlights –  $130-160
Pendant Lights – $180-$300
Ceiling Fans  – $300-$600
Bathroom 3 in 1 fan/light/heat (non ducted) – $350+
Double Power Points – $70 – $80*
Outdoor Double Weatherproof Power Point – $130 – $150*
Outdoor Light- $100-$200

*Generally the difference in price between a single and a double is minimal so always get at least doubles.

Other Options

Doing A Deal With The Electrician

In the past, with a small builder, I have been able to deal directly with the electrician but that is very rare.

Most of the Bigger Builders see electrical upgrades as the ‘Cream’ on the contract and won’t allow any side deals.

After Handover

You can get separate prices for the additional fittings after handover.

The problem then is that running cables behind plasterboard isn’t quick, or cheap, so the savings may not be there. (It may even be more expensive)

Hints To Save Money

If cost is an issue here are some hints:

  • Down Lights can give an impressive effect but they are the most expensive way to light a room! (Also see this link to Why I don’t like Down Lights) Unless You are training to appear on ‘THE BLOCK’ a simple Oyster fitting will be fine for most rooms and cost less than $20.
  • Put a double socket in the middle of where any bed head is going to be. . You can then run 2 power board  giving your 4 sockets on either side of the bed.
  • Place sockets you want on internal walls rather than external walls. . . The cheapest way to add a 2nd socket, after handover, is back to back with an existing socket in the next room.
  • Externally flood lights are expensive, give a harsh light, and are too directional . . . A cheaper fitting with a low energy bulb can give a better result.
  • If the standard bathroom fit-out includes an extraction fan I wouldn’t bother with one of those 3 in 1 Units. (See this link for more information why not: 3 in 1)

 

See Electrical for more Posts

 

Energy From Sun.

Have you ever wondered why it gets so HOT in the roof space on a sunny day?

Well there is a lot of Energy coming from the Sun . . . .approximately 1.37 kw /m2 shines on the Earth

By the time the solar energy gets through the atmosphere to the ground it’s about 1kw/m2  for a flat surface square on to the Sun.

Even in Melbourne on an average day the typical 200m2 house will get around 8ookw hours of heat radiation onto the roof.  In January it can be almost twice as much!

Some interesting Solar Exposure Maps, like this one, are available on the Bureau of Meteorology website at this link: Solar Exposure, if you want to check the solar radiation for your location.

This shows the solar energy received in Mega Joules (MJ) on a horizontal surface. (to convert MJ to kwh multiply by 0.28).

The maps are based on measured values so they includes things like times of cloud cover.

If you follow the above link you will be able to find a map of values for each month.

 

See Sustainability for more posts.

 

Light ‘Colour’

When you are buying a light bulb you may have noticed the box says things like “Warm White” or “Daylight White” but what does it mean? . . . . . . and which should you buy?

Colour Temperature

Light colour  is measured using the ‘Colour Temperature’ and is quoted in Kelvins (K).

A higher Kelvin temperature means the colour is cool. while lower K temperatures are warmer colours. (No wonder it can be confusing!)

For domestic lighting you should be looking for lights in the range from 2700K to 5000K.

Light Colour Options

Within the range 2700K to 5000K there are three options of colour temperature to choose from:

  • Warm White – 2700K to 3500K  Has a slight yellowish tint which gives a relaxing and calming light. Good for bedrooms, living rooms, and dining rooms.
  • Natural White – 3500K to 4500K Closest to sunlight, which makes it good compromise for any location, but particularly; walk in robes, pantries, garages and other areas that don’t have a lot of natural light.
  • Daylight White Light – 5000K to 6000K A slight blueish tint provides a crisp and bright white light that helps you feel more alert. Good for the home office or workshop.

En Suite / Bathroom Light

I know there are a lot of ladies out there who want to be sure their appearance is just right. To help with this the light on the make up mirror should be appropriate for the lighting you will encounter over your day.

If you mainly work in an office or brightly lit factory Daylight White may be the best choice. . . . Otherwise Natural White is a good option.

 

If you are worried about Brightness see Lighting Levels

For more posts see Electrical or Light Fittings

 

 

NEIGHBOURS

Would you worry if you saw this guy (from Jim’s Jihad?) mowing the lawn next door?

Unlikely. . .  but it does illustrate the fact that neighbours can have a big effect on your enjoyment, or otherwise, of your house.

In fact 20% of us have fallen out with a neighbour in the last 5 years, and only 1% said all their neighbours were great.

Top Five Reasons for Neighbour Problems

Domain recently carried out a survey, and here are the top 5 reasons why people had problems with their neighbours:

  • Loud music (30%)
  • Late night parties (28%)
  • Barking dogs (26%)
  • Overhearing Shouting and arguing (16%)
  • Untidy property (15%)

Its often said “Tall fences make good neighbours’. . . .  but with the top four problems being noise related perhaps it should be “Tall fences and Good Sound Proofing make good neighbours!”

Before Buying a Block

If you are buying on a new subdivision who your neighbour will be is always a lottery . . . . so corner block have always been attractive to me as  it means one less neighbour.

If I was looking at a vacant block (or Knock down rebuild) in an established suburb I would aim to make visits:

  • During the middle of a working day to check for barking dogs.
  • Mid to late evening to check for loud music.

At Selection/PreStart

If you want better sound proofing two things you should consider are:

Smaller Windows – As solid walls have better sound reduction than Glass

Double Glazing – Much better noise insulation than single panes

See Noise for more posts

 

Photo courtesy of  neighborshame.com where you  will find more bad neighbour photos.

 

The Best Brands for Your Bathroom

Guest post by Hubert Dwight

The bathroom is no longer just another room in your home.

Neither is it a place just to take a shower nor a place to stock your towels.

The modern bathroom is a place of rejuvenation, relaxation and meditation; the ultimate me-only place and a real pampering zone at its best.

Whether you are after an energized shower before going to work, or you want to relax your mind while in a warm Jacuzzi, or you desire a long candle-lit soak in the bath before going to bed, the bathroom is arguably one of the best rooms in your home.

However this is only the case if it is well structured, using some of the best and most exotic brands that can be found on the internet..

If you are living in Australia and are interested in a technologically advanced bathroom that is classically and elegantly designed, then you are bound to look through an assortment of brands.

You want brands that offer you convenience, simplicity, enjoyment and innovation within the confines of your beautifully made bathroom.

Below are some of the best brands that will offer the best in bathrooms.

Caroma

Caroma is without a doubt the best bathroom brand that can be found in Australia, but also compares well around the world.

The brand’s commitment to top-notch excellence in design and water conservation is unrivaled in the bathroom market.

Structured around the philosophy of high efficiency, beauty, excellence and innovation, Caroma is the undoubted industry leader in terms of high efficiency toilet suites,  as well as technologically advanced bathroom basins, bidets, and showers.

As a company, Caroma employs highly educated, advanced, experienced and creative engineers to ensure that your bathroom is structured not only to suit your needs, but also to offer ultimate style that can only be dreamed of by others.

Whether you are in need of a simple and traditional bathroom or an ultra modern bathroom that comes with 21st century technology, Caroma is, without a doubt, your only solution. Their flexibility ensures that their design suits both residential and commercial bathrooms.

Grohe

As one of the best bathroom tap ware and mixer brands in Australia, Grohe has an extensive portfolio of bathroom products.

From showering solutions to bathroom accessories, Grohe has an extensive selection of the best products for you to choose from.

They are among the best when it comes to creating consistent and stylish bathroom designs that revolve around crisp and chamfered detailing that is ideal for modern bathrooms.

Even though there are a whole lot of bathroom brands available in Australia, Caroma and Grohe and JustLuxe are among the best brands that cannot be ignored. Whether you are after luxury, modern advancement, simplicity or elegance, these are definitely your options for the best brands in bathroom matters.


You should, however consider the most widely available brand first, as there is a better chance of being able to get hold of these products, rather than having to wait for a long time until such time as stock has landed in Australian outlets. Choosing Caroma is a great choice for this reason, as you won’t have to wait long for delivery.

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