One of the most expensive rooms in your new house will be the kitchen.
For the purposes of research I spent an hour looking through my local Bunnings.
Just concentrating on stainless steel double drainer sinks I found they stock over 20 different types.
Prices range from $118 right through to $1,553.
That’s 1300% increase.
Want a ceramic sink and you could double the cost again. . . . and that is just one small part of the kitchen.
You have got to select taps, counter tops, cupboards, cook tops, ovens, range hoods.
I’m not saying select the cheapest of everything . . . just remember the more you spend on the kitchen the less you will have to spend on the rest of the house, or you may finish up with an horrendous mortgage.
Last week was ‘Bathroom Week’ on ‘The Block’ and all the contestants were out shopping for basins with the WOW factor.
Fine for the judges. . . . . but some of these design concepts don’t think about the splashing of soapy water that can mean constant cleaning is needed.
Here are some of the practical things I have learned about wash basins.
Basins with a flat internal base, or that have a mixer that directs flow at the drain tend to cause more splashes than a bowl shaped basin.
For basins on the vanity a straight back that can be sealed against the wall avoids having a hard to clean area behind the basin.
A mixer set to the side, rather than centrally, allows you to lean lower over the basin minimising splashing outside the basin.
Having a medicine cabinet in front of the basin can prevent you leaning lower over the basin, thus increasing splashing outside the basin.
Square mixers result in water drying on the top surface of the mixer rather than running off, so they need cleaning every day.
Splashes really show on mirrors so have at least a couple of rows of tiles between the top of the basin and the bottom of the mirror.
I have been in England recently . . . and of course couldn’t resist spending some time looking at houses.
This house has just about the tackiest facade I have seen in a long time.
I don’t have a problem with people spending a bit of money on the front of the house. . . but this house breaks two of my rules for good design:
Think about looking at the house from the side rather than just from the front. If you have a clear view of the side it needs a transition, or in this case a continuation of the white render along the side of the house.
Make sure that the ends of the facade are well detailed. This looks so obviously ‘Stuck On’, but if it had been set between two projecting walls it would look much better.
Many people building a new house like cooking on gas, but may find that their area doesn’t have a mains supply.
The question then becomes “Should you go for bottled gas, or go all electric?”
Energy Cost
To compare energy costs you first need to understand how much energy there is in bottled gas.
45kg bottle of gas holds the equivalent of 611 kw hours
9kg bottle of gas holds the equivalent of 115 kw hours
Price
Current prices Victoria July 2015 are:
45kg is $114.00 – Equivalent to $0.18 per kw hour
9kg (Swap and Go) is $23.00 – Equivalent to $0.20 per kw hour
For the 45 kg bottles you would need to add rental for 2 bottles at around $40 each/year
With the 9kg bottles you need to consider the purchase price for the initial bottle, plus a couple of dollars for fuel every couple of months to swap bottles.
Efficiency
There is no star rating for cooktops, but I did find the following, typical, comparison figures on the Consumer Energy Center Website:
Standard Gas Burner – 55%
Standard Electric Hotplate – 65%
Induction Element – 90%
The reason for the difference is that the standard cook tops radiate a sizable amount of heat into the air; while the induction element makes the bottom of the pan the heating element, putting more heat into the food.
Convenience
I much prefer cooking on gas to using a standard electric hotplate. (In case you are wondering I probably cook 75% of family meals and we rarely get takeaway food) . . .However people do tell me that induction element are pretty close to the ease of gas.
One issue with induction elements is they don’t work with aluminium or copper pans, just Stainless Steel and Cast Iron, so it might be time for some new pans!
Overall
If I was building in an area without mains gas I think I would go for an Induction Cooktop for the following reasons:
Cost – When the additional costs are added to the base cost and with the lower efficiency the final cost is around around $0.35-$0.40. Electricity is going to be cheaper especially if you have got solar power.
Simplicity – One bill for all fuel use and no need to bother about changing bottles.
This photograph shows an attractive antique looking wood heater which I found on hearth.com. . . . but its location looks very odd to me:
As it has been placed in front of varnished timber it has had to be placed well away from the corner meaning it’s taking a lot of space away from the room.
A large proportion of the radiant heat from the stove, and the stove pipe, will be lost through those windows behind it.
Any attempt to reduce the heat loss through those windows by curtains will increase the fire risk.
You need to remember that wood heater efficiency isn’t just about the stove. . . . it’s also about the location.
You may be out shopping for a new fridge to go in the new house
or
You may just want to check your existing fridge fits in the alcove in your new kitchen.
Whichever it is . . . . . Don’t forget to leave room around the fridge!
Ventilation
Both refrigerators and freezers work by extracting the heat from inside to a radiator coil on the rear of the unit.
If the air flowing past the coils is restricted the efficiency of the refrigerator will drop, and your power bills will go up.
I would recommend a space at least 25mm either side of the cabinet and 40-50mm behind and above the top of the unit.
Don’t then use these spaces to store trays, chopping boards, etc otherwise you are going to block that ventilation path.
I have heard of people installing an external vent behind a fridge mounted on an external wall. . . It seems like a good idea if you remember to shut the vent on hot days. (remember on a 30 + degree day the incoming air will be hotter than the air in the room)
Door Opening
To get drawers out of a Fridge or Freezer you normally have to open the door by much more than 90 degrees. (I have just checked mine and its about 135 degrees)
This means you may need more than the 25mm suggested above on the hinge side unless the front of the fridge projects forward of the alcove.
Built in Fridges
I’m not a big fan of built in fridges, but if you like them make sure that ventilation and door opening are fully considered before you buy.
We understand that nagging voice in the back of your head that keeps asking “Will we go for a split systems or go for it and purchase a ducted air con system?”
Weighing up the advantages and disadvantages of both air conditioning systems is not easy and often ends up in people going for the builders standard option.
Here is some information on the pros and their cons of the alternatives.
Ducted System
Characteristics of ducted systems are:
Neater with small vents, typically set in ceiling like the one on the right;
Centrally controllable;
Can have multiple zones;
Only one unit to maintain;
Air flows are less obvious in larger rooms due to several outlets;
You can direct the system capacity to a restricted number of zones;
Adjusting ceiling vents is difficult: you will need a step ladder;
To be effective need open doors between outlet vents, and return air inlet.
It can be worthwhile getting a unit with variable fan speeds. . . . . . instead of ‘Low-Med-High’ other wise you may find the fan being too noisy when you are only using a a single zone.
Separate Units
System characteristics are:
If you only cool key rooms it can be cheaper to install and run (have units in every room running constantly and it will be more expensive);
Individual temperature control for each unit;
Ceiling space isn’t filled with ducting;
Individual temperature control for each unit;
Failure less off an issue as doors can be left open to get some cooling effect from ajacent cooled rooms;
Can close doors between ‘zones’ without affecting performance;
More intrusive appearance, and air flow is more obvious.
Combination
Can’t decide perhaps a combination system might suit you?
For instance have ducted heating and cooling in Kitchen, Meals, Family and Theatre rooms; Split systems in the bedrooms.
Running a split system to heat or cool the bedroom is more energy efficient than running a big ducted unit.
Being able to individually control the temperatures in each bedroom is handy as children won’t want their rooms heated or cooled when you do.
Its useful you can set a split system heater in the bedroom to run for an hour or so at bedroom before shutting off.
Read the House Magazines or watch TV Programs and you will often notice quotes like:
“You can never have too much storage space.”
Well I think that’s BULLDUST!
If you think you need more storage space; then think about getting rid of some STUFF.
Get too much storage space and your are just going to be storing JUNK you no longer need!
10 Decluttering Ideas
Here are some things to think about before you decide how much storage you need in your new home:
Magazines – Once you have read the magazine put it in the recyling its unlikely to be read again. If you think there is an interesting article you ‘must’ keep then rip it out and put it in a folder.
Fiction Paperbacks – Are you really going to read that thriller again when you know ‘Who did it’
Old Computers/Tablets/Phones – These days people seem to update their technology every couple of years but why aren’t they throwing the old away? If you have got something stored on the old device either transfer it to the new device, or store it on a hard drive.
Media Storage – Still got some Video Tapes, LPs in boxes? Why? even CDs /DVDs are gettinng to be old technology. Unless you are a serious collector or regularly play them copy to a hard and send them to the OP shop.
Pictures and Ornaments – No longer like the picture or ornament? Then why are you keeping it in a box in the garage?
Clothes and Shoes – No longer fits, needs repair, or haven’t worn in a year? Then it could be time to go.
Bedding – You can get by with two sets of sheets for adults, four if you prefer warmer sheets in winter. Children possibly an extra set or two in case of accidents. So get rid of the rest.
Children’s Toys – We have been guilty of saving toys for future grandchildren, but unless they are classics like Lego will the future children want them?
Kitchen Gadgets – Got a pineapple corer, egg slicer, potato chipper . . . . or any other of those kitchen devices that take more time to clean than doing the job with a knife? Unless you are using at least 4-5 times a year its just wasting space!
Glasses and Crockery – The set may have been a wedding present. . . . but if you have dropped, and smashed 3 out of the 6 it might be time to ditch the rest.
People building a new home are often shocked when their bank valuation is less than the cost of the land plus the build cost.
Problems With Low Valuation
The two issue are
Unless your deposit is larger than the difference between the Final Cost and the valuation you will be unable to finance the build.
Even if your deposit is enough to pay the difference you may find you have to pay Lenders Mortgage Insurance which can add significantly to your payments.
Reasons For Low Valuation
The bank valuation is aimed at estimating how much the bank would be able to sell the house for if you default on your mortgage payments. . . . . . They are not really interested in how much its going to cost you.
What interests the bank is how much roughly comparable houses are selling in the same area.
Here are some reasons why the Bank Valuation may be low:
Architect, or Custom Designed Homes – You may get the value for an individually designed home in an expensive suburb but in a typical subdivision, of mainly project homes, its less likely
Over Development – Putting too much house on a block can have a detrimental effect on value if you don’t have enough outdoor areas.
Bigger Than Other Houses – Valuers always have a difficulty in providing a valuation that is significantly higher than the median value of the suburb.
Too Many Upgrades – Watch the Home Shows and you can spend many extra thousands on Kitchens and Bathrooms which may add little to the value.
Overpriced Land – Watch out for Developers who offer cashbacks, pay your house deposit, or discounts for remaining blocks on the subdivision. What this generally means is that the original price was set above the true value.
Swimming Pools – As many people hate swimming pools as love them so you rarely get any additional value even if you have spent tens of thousands.
Market Downturn – Could be due to a local industry closing or a more general recession but its unrealistic to assume property prices will always rise.
Location – Recent floods or bush fires will have a negative effect on value.
Site Works – Sloping Blocks, Building on Fill, or Reactive Clay; all can add costs which you may not get back.
What You Can Do
Banks are really allergic to high levels of risk so though you can try Option 1 and Option 2 below but you may need to resign yourself to Option 3!
Contact the valuers to get some background to the reasons for the valuation, or even look to get your own valuation.
Try other lenders
Revise your expectations by cutting down the house size, and or upgrades.
