Access to Rear

With the narrow blocks that are becoming more common you see a lot of new houses built right to the side boundary on both sides.

In some cases that can’t be avoided, but I think there is a real advantage in buying a block with enough room for a path on at least one side of the house, preferably both sides.

Here’s some reasons why:

  • There will be extra costs for special wall and roof details, constructing foundations, and building walls on the boundary.
  • You might have ongoing property maintenance issues if you fall out with your neighbour.
  • If you need to do some gardening you can avoid taking top soil, plants and other dirty things through the garage, or even the house, if the garage doesn’t have a back door.
  • Many properties have drainage or sewerage easements with a Manhole (or in these politically correct time an access pit). If the council/water authority needs access you may need to take time off work rather than just leave a gate open for the day.
  • If you have a dog in the back yard then looking through a gate helps to stop them getting bored while you are out at work.
  • If you want a detached property why have it looking like a terrace?

Perhaps there are some advantages of building to the boundary. If you have found any let me know.

For more things to think about when buying a block see:

Guide to Buying a Block

Fixings on Plasterboard Walls

When you move into a new house there are lots of things that need to be fixed to walls.

For things like small pictures you can use picture hooks . . . . but what about heaviers things like; mirrors, tool racks, and shelves.

You will find that a lot of DIY manuals recommend screwing into the timber wall studs. The trouble is the studs aren’t always in the right location or easy to locate.

One solution I have found useful are Wallmate Anchors like this one.

Last time I moved I bought a box of 100, and used them all in the first six months.

I find them quite easy to use as follows:

  • Make a small hole in the intended location.(The instructions say you don’t need to make a hole but I find this less accurate)
  • Position the small spike in the end into the hole and screw in using a cross head screw driver until the anchor is flush with the wall.
  • Screw your fixing into the anchor

NB. I have not been paid for this post.

See Settling In for more Posts

 

On-Site Stormwater Detention – Storage

Background

Many urban developments, and subdivisions, require stormwater flows from your block to be limited to a maximum flow rate. (See: ‘Onsite Stormwater Dention‘ for the reason why)

Although councils will require the calculations to be done by a qualified hydraulic engineer here is some explanation of the process so you can understand what is required.

Permissible Site Discharge

The ‘Permissible Site Discharge'(PSD), which is a maximum flow rate, will normally be set by your Council based on the block area.

The flow rate is usually controlled by making all the flow pass through a Orifice (a small diameter hole) before it can be discharged.

Designing Storages

Reducing the flow involves the following steps:

  1. Calculating the Peak Discharge from your block. The Local ‘Intensity of Rainfall‘ x Total Impemeable Area (The area of roof and hard paved surface)
  2. Calculating the size of a storage required, the Site Storage Requirement (SSR) to take the rainfall that cannot be discharged until the storm has passed. Your council may require this to be calculated in a particular way and/or using a particular computer program.
  3. Designing the storage to fit on your block.

NB The storage volume is different from rainwater collection volume as the detention storage volume is expected to be empty unless it is raining hard.

Onsite Storage Options

The three options that are available are:

  • Below Ground Tanks. Most expensive option but does have the advantage of being able to located under driveway or garden if you are short of space. May need a pump to empty tank if public stormwater drains are shallow. (Some councils require tank to be emptied by gravity which can make them difficult on some blocks.)

  • Above Ground Tanks These are less expensive than underground tanks but can take up a lot of area so can be a problem for small blocks. Some councils will allow the detention volume to be provided within the same tank as rainwater storage.
  • Basins Basins are the least expensive method of providing storage but require much larger areas than above ground tanks. They are normally a low lying area of the garden which can be flooded for a short period of time. Because of issues such as drowning risk there are often council regulations limiting the depth of storage.

 

See Drainage for more posts

 

 

Tasty Door

Well this door takes the biscuit!

And you can actually eat it.

It was set up by the British company Tate and Lyle as part of a promotion in which they built an edible ‘Hotel’.

Thanks to the British web www.digitalspy.co.uk for this photo.

 

For more Unusual House Photos, and Fails, have a look at: What the………………….?

 

Breaking the 500 Post ‘Barrier’

Welcome to this, the 501st Post on the anewhouse Web Site.

The blog has certainly come a long way over the past 3 and a half years.

The site is currently getting around 8,500 visits a month with over 20,000 pages viewed each month.

Of those page visits the top 5 most popular topics (apart from the home page) are:

  1. Construction Stages
  2. Room Height
  3. Soil Classification
  4. Building on Clay Soils
  5. Waffle Pod Slabs

What do you think is the most useful topic?

Cost Plus Contracts – Avoid

What Is A Cost Plus Contract

Basically it is a contract where you agree to pay all the builders ‘Direct Costs’ plus a ‘Fee for Administration and Profit’.

Rather than a quotation the builder provides an estimate with the actual cost being determined at the completion.

These type of contract are only supposed to be used when it is difficult for a builder to accurately price a job, or the client wants to keep making changes during the construction.

Most building professionals find managing ‘Cost Plus Contracts’ extremely difficult. They are not for the amateur!

The Problems

If the builder hasn’t the expertise to provide an accurate quotation will he have the expertise to manage the contract in a timely and economical manner?

There is no pressure on the builder to work in an efficient way, or select cost effective materials. The more money they spend the bigger their fee.

Who is going to evaluate and, check the builders costs?

Without constant monitoring you will be paying for all the Builders mistakes!

You might have a budget but with the contract requiring you to pay whatever it costs, plus the fee, its easy to blow the budget . . . By a long way.

If a Builder Suggests A Cost Plus Contract

Unless you can:

  • Really trust the builder, and
  • Pay for a full time project manager,and
  • Afford major cost overruns.

STOP and re-think your strategy.

This could be to either seek out builders who are able to give you a quotation, or get your designer to break the work down into more basic packages that can be individually quoted.

See Contracts for more posts

 

 

Pressure Reducing Valves (PRV)

I have previously talked about Noises in Pipes and Dealing with Water Hammer, but neglected to mention PRV’s.

Frequently people think high water pressure to be a good. In fact it can be a big problem. Too much water pressure in a domestic system can:

  • Result in toilet systems leaking,
  • Put extra stress on plumbing joints, taps and water heaters,
  • Increase the risk of washing machine/dishwasher hoses bursting,
  • Cause water hammer issues.
Caleffi PRV

Installing a PRV can be a  simple way of dealing with these problems.

PRVs automatically control the water pressure so effectively reducing a high incoming pressure to a lower, more acceptable pressure. Used in the home it can help to save water and increase the longevity of household appliances.

A valve for a domestic system will cost around $60 plus installation.

Valves are typically set by the manufacturer at a pressure of 500kPa normally suitable for most household. If necessary the pressure can be further reduced.

 

See Plumbing for more posts

Walk The Plank

Do you like this entrance to a house?

It’s from the Wabi House in Southern California, designed by Sebastian Mariscal.

For more photos follow this link to Dwell Magazine.

Looks like a great site for breeding mozzies.

It could also be a bit risky coming home after a few drinks, especially if you were a bit unsteady on your feet!

For more Unusual House Photos, and Fails, have a look at: What the………………….?

Fixed Price Contracts

Having a ‘Fixed Price Contract’ doesn’t mean the bottom line price of the contract will stay the same.

All it means is that the majority of prices for individual work items are fixed.

Here are reasons for changes in the final price:

  • Planning and Building Approvals Some blocks will have requirements placed on them that may only be determined after  the plans are submitted; for example Bush Fire Prevention.
  • Site Works Sometimes the excavation of the foundations can reveal worse ground conditions than the three small test holes indicate. Normally the price is only fixed if the site investigations results are representative of the whole foundation.
  • Increases in Taxes or Charges Not a lot that you can do if the Government or Council changes the tax rules or scale of fees.
  • Variations on Building Works The contract prices are only fixed for the agreed drawings and specification, start changing things and prices can rise quickly!
  • Prime Cost Items and Provisional Sums Adjustment See the following links Prime Costs and Provisional Sums.

 

Also see Final Cost

 

 

 

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