Brick Ties

Veneer galvanised brick tie

Brick ties, although small, have an important part to play in the structural strength of your new home.

  • In brick veneer construction, ties are used to pass all the sideways forces across the cavity (such as from wind) to the frame.
  • For double brick construction the ties share the forces between the leaves.
  • They prevent lateral movement at expansion and articulation joints.
  • Special ties also connect walls where bonding of masonry is not practical.

Effectiveness

Probably the biggest test of brick walls in Australia was the 1989 Newcastle (NSW) earthquake. . . . Generally brick walls survived well except where there were problems with the ties such as:

  • Rusted through galvanised ties;
  • Ties not properly connected;
  • Missing ties;
  • Incorrect ties used.

Types

Ties are available in a wide range of types and in various strengths such as heavy, medium and light duty. (Ancon Building Products have a very informative downloadable guide)

The tie illustrated above is a galvanised stamped steel plate tie, used to connect the brickwork to a frame. The tie is nailed to the frame (through the hole at the top) and the corrugated end is incorporated into the mortar joint of the brickwork. The section of tie which spans the cavity is shaped to shed water.

In the case of a double frame construction a wire tie with loops at each end, or a figure of 8 shape,are the common choices of ties.

Common Materials are:

  • Galvanised Steel – Most common type.
  • Stainless Steel – For high exposure locations or very long life. (Seem expensive but only a small component Thof overall building  cost)
  • Plastic – Mainly for acoustic applications.

Spacing

Check with your Structural Engineer but for a typical medium duty application:

  • Vertical Spacing 600mm  but 300mm around openings
  • Horizontal Spacing  600mm for Double Brick  OR every main stud for Brick Veneer (normally 450mm for external walls and 600mm for internal walls

More information can be found in the Australian Standard AS3700 .

 

See Bricks for more posts

 

Modern ‘Castle’

parish Lane Castle from GOOGLE Maps

Here is an interesting ‘Castle’ in Perth.

It seems a bit of a mixed architecture with a Gothic Castle Tower added to what looks to be a Roman Style Villa.

Although its not to my taste, one of the things I like about Australian Planning is it does allow people to put up different houses like this.

Thanks to SaveH2o for spotting this one!

 

For more Unusual House Photos, Wins, and Fails, have a look at: What the………………….?

 

 

Do You Need A Home Theatre?

I keep reading articles about issues with the affordability of Australian houses. . . . . but then find lot’s of you want a ‘Media Room’ in your new houses!

So how much is a basic Home Theatre going to add to the cost of your new house?

Room Size

Room size if you are going to get a big screen tv say 75″ or a projector the experts say you really need to be around 3m away from the screen.

That means you are talking about a 4m x 4m room.

At ‘say’ $1,500/m2 the room alone is going to cost you around $24,000.

Fit Out

Again looking at a fairly basic system I have allowed the following:

  • $6,000 – TV and sound system, cabling, etc
  • $3,000 – Furniture, carpets, and lighting.

Of course if you really want to go to town you could spend Millions!

Overall Costs

So your basic home theatre is going to cost around $31,000!

Assuming you borrow the money the payments, at a  long term average of 7% over 25 years, amounts to:

  • $54 per week.
  • $240 pr month.
  • $2,880 per year.
  • or $72,000 over the full term.

Don’t forget all this is going to be in addition to a large TV in the family room, and probably another couple of TVs around the house!

In Conclusion

Well it’s up to you but, I’ve got to 60 and don’t feel that I have missed out by not having a home theatre.

In fact instead of over committing on houses  I was able to put more into my Super means I am now semi retired!

 

Don’t Agree? . . . Leave a Comment!

 

See Size for more posts

 

Timber Frames – Packing

An issue with timber frames is making sure that the frame is bedded securely on the floor slab. . . . You don’t want movement of the frame when the house is completed!

Flatness of the Slab

You may think the building slab looks flat but in practice very few slabs are perfectly level.

The Guide to Standards and Tolerances states “Generally the floor shall be within + or- 10mm of the finished floor level in any room and within +or- 5mm in a 3m length.”

So when the frame is put on the floor it could look something like the exaggerated sketch below.

Making Sure The Frame Is Stable

The key issue is to make sure that the frame is fully supported under the stud positions otherwise the studs can move vertically.

That means that packing will need to be fixed under the bottom plate at the locations shown by the red arrows above.

Packing can be made from hardboard, MDF, Plywood, metal, formica, or specialised plastic packers (sometimes called shims).

It is important that the packers should be secure and non compressible.

They should also not project beyond the bottom plate, otherwise they may affect the later secure fastening of plasterboard and skirting boards.

 

See Structural Frame for more posts

 

Home Of The Tooth Fairy? – Win!

I recently spotted this interesting fence on my travels.

No it’s not the Tooth Fairy, but it is a dentist in Aspendale Gardens, a suburb of Melbourne.

Definitely a Win for an eye catching way of advertising his practice!

If you have seen an interesting, or strange, house let me know and we can feature it.

 

For more Unusual House Photos, Wins, and Fails, have a look at: What the………………….?

 

Temporary Down Pipes

A great way to stop the building site from becoming water logged is for the builder to install temporary down pipes as soon as the roof has been covered.

Although this is generally good practice it is really important if you are building on Reactive Clay as it will minimise the occurrence of Soil Heave damaging the slab.

Basically the temporary down pipes are a polythene tube (see photo) which is taped to the gutter outlet and the pipe that the final downspout will be connected to.

As you can see the temporary down pipes aren’t going to cost much.

If I was looking round a large development area at the houses being constructed seeing temporary downpipes in place would certainly make me think that the builder was more committed to quality

 

For Similar Posts see Getting it Right

 

 

$6 Million Home Theatre

Yes you saw it right! 

This price of the home theatre is $6,000,000! The rest of the house is extra!

The sound system includes 72 speakers each powered by its own $8,000 analogue amplifier paired with a $18,000 digital amplifier.

To deliver the 150,000watts of amplification means the room requires its own power supply from the mains including a separate transformer.

To find out more see the TV Antenna Blog.

 

For more Unusual House Photos, Wins, and Fails, have a look at: What the………………….?

 

Light ‘Colour’

When you are buying a light bulb you may have noticed the box says things like “Warm White” or “Daylight White” but what does it mean? . . . . . . and which should you buy?

Colour Temperature

Light colour  is measured using the ‘Colour Temperature’ and is quoted in Kelvins (K).

A higher Kelvin temperature means the colour is cool. while lower K temperatures are warmer colours. (No wonder it can be confusing!)

For domestic lighting you should be looking for lights in the range from 2700K to 5000K.

Light Colour Options

Within the range 2700K to 5000K there are three options of colour temperature to choose from:

  • Warm White – 2700K to 3500K  Has a slight yellowish tint which gives a relaxing and calming light. Good for bedrooms, living rooms, and dining rooms.
  • Natural White – 3500K to 4500K Closest to sunlight, which makes it good compromise for any location, but particularly; walk in robes, pantries, garages and other areas that don’t have a lot of natural light.
  • Daylight White Light – 5000K to 6000K A slight blueish tint provides a crisp and bright white light that helps you feel more alert. Good for the home office or workshop.

En Suite / Bathroom Light

I know there are a lot of ladies out there who want to be sure their appearance is just right. To help with this the light on the make up mirror should be appropriate for the lighting you will encounter over your day.

If you mainly work in an office or brightly lit factory Daylight White may be the best choice. . . . Otherwise Natural White is a good option.

 

If you are worried about Brightness see Lighting Levels

For more posts see Electrical or Light Fittings

 

 

Builder’s Christmas Shutdown

Every Year I hear complaints of “Everything has stopped on my House Build for a month

What can make it worse is when the builder ‘Tries’ to claim an ‘Extension of Time’ for the Build.

What Does The Contract Say?

Well I have looked through the HIA Contract for my last build and here are the relevant parts.

Schedule 1*

Schedule 1 is the place that the builder states the time for completion of the build.

It specifically provides the builder with the opportunity to show how many days are included for; Weekends, public holidays,  rostered days off, and other foreseeable delays. (Christmas, and Easter, shutdowns come round every year! . . . .You can’t tell me they are not foreseeable!)

Builders Right to Extensions of Time (Clause 34*)

Acceptable reasons for ‘Extensions of Time’are:

  • The owner requests a variation.
  • Suspension due to the Owner Breaching the Contract.
  • Inclement Weather. (Bad weather during a foreseeable closure doen’t count! . . . unless it is at the end of the period and leaves the site too wet for a quick start.)
  • Disputes with neighbours that are not the builders fault.
  • Civil Commotion or industrial action (Annual shutdowns are not industrial action!)
  • Anything not done by the owner or their agents.
  • Approval delays that are not the builders fault. (It is foreseeable that there may be a delay in getting approval over the Christmas and Easter periods!)
  • Anything the builder can’t control (By making appropriate allowance in Schedule 1 the Builder controls the situation!)

What You Can Do

Before Signing The Contract

Ask the Builder to provide in writing the details of the allowance for foreseeable delays to Schedule 1*

If The Builder Claims For A Christmas, Or Easter, Shutdown Extension.

Write back stating “Building Industry  Shutdowns during the main Holiday Periods are entirely foreseeable events that should have been allowed for in the Build Period”.

* In your contract documents the numbers may be different but you should find similar sections.

 

See Contract Conditions for more posts

 

Big Window – Fail

I have previously talked about Good Orientation and Window Size in this Blog.

It’s not as though this sort of information is secret knowledge. . . . . I would have thought all architects would be aware of the importance of these sort of issues.

So I wonder why this custom designed,  suburban house in Melbourne has this huge South facing window.

Here is why I think it’s a fail:

  • Minimal privacy.
  • Massive heat loss in winter meaning huge heating bills, or a house like a fridge.
  • No solar benefit in the winter.
  • Considerable heat gain in summer due to the poor insulation value of glazing.

Just in case you thought the purpose of the window was to take in a magnificent aspect . . . . . here is the view!

 

 

For more Unusual House Photos, Wins, and Fails, have a look at: What the………………….?

 

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