Author: Brian Ashworth

Types of New House Permits

Here is some information on the several sorts of permits that are involved before you start building a house.

Planning Permit

Sometimes called a Development Approval (DA) if you are buying a block on an existing subdivision you should already have Development Approval.

This DA will provide details of the restrictions on what you can build on your block.

If you want to do any of the following you will probably need to apply for a Planning Permit:

  • Change of use (for example farming to residential).
  • Subdivision of an existing block.
  • Substantially altering an existing building.
  • Changing any conditions of the existing permit.

Building Permit

A Building Permit is an approval that confirms that the proposed work meets the standard of the Building Regulations.

A permit is usually required for works that involve:

  • Building a New House.
  • Major alterations to an existing house.
  • Additions to an existing house (for example a Pergola or Deck).
  • Demolition of an existing house.

Road Opening Permit

A Road Opening Permit,from the Council Engineering Department is normally required to create or alter the access to a property, install service trenches, and build over a council Easement.

Sewer Build Over Permit

In many areas the sewers are controlled by a Water Authority rather than the council. If you want to build on a Sewer Easement you will require a separate permit from the Water Authority.

Want to know more? …………………….The best thing is to go down to your local council and talk to the staff there.

 

Once you have finished you will need an Occupancy Permit

See Restrictions for more limitations on how you develop your block

 

Damp Proof Course (DPC)

The purpose of the outer skin of a building is to keep moisture out of the house structure.

A  damp proof course, in the brick veneer example shown below, has two purposes:

  • It prevents moisture from the ground rising up through the external brick skin. (This moisture can cause effervescence which stains the brickwork)
  • It ensures that moisture that penetrates the brickwork runs down the wall and is discharged to the outside through the weep holes.

The DPC, which is usually polyethylene, should be the full width of the brickwork. The other edge of the DPC should be fixed to the face of the bottom plate of the wall frame.

The drawing shows a DPC 75mm (one brick) above the ground. This is an absolute minimum and 150mm is preferred.

 

For other DPC details see this Clay Brick link.

For other similar posts see Construction

 

Subdivision – Process

Found a big block and would like to split it into two? ………  or just looking to build another house on your block?……….You are going to need to subdivide the block.

Here is an idea of the process for Victoria (It will be similar in other states but check with your local council to make sure you get the details right)

Stage 1 – Planning Permit

You will need to make a formal application to the Council for a planning permit.

As part of its decision making process Councils time will advertise  your proposal to  adjoining property owners.

It will also require consent to the issuing of a permit from the Servicing Authorities (water, sewer, gas, telephone, drainage) and the highway authority.

Generally it will take 60-90 days for the Planning Permit but it might be longer if there are objections.

The Planning Permit will outlines conditions that must be met. These can include: Servicing Authorities requirements, such as construction of vehicle crossings, drainage works and contribution towards open space where applicable. The Planning Permit may also request the submission of amended plans.

Stage 2 – Certification

Certification is an administrative step to ensure that the Plan of Subdivision is satisfactory.

The Plan of Subdivision for Certification is referred to the Highways and Servicing Authorities to determine.

  • Whether Easements are required for their services.
  • Engineering plans for required works are approved (eg. construction of roads, drainage and services,

Once the Servicing Authorities have consented to the Plan of Subdivision and Engineering plans have been approved the plan can be Certified.

The Certified Plan is valid for five years, if the plan is not registered at the Titles Office within that time, the plan expires.

Stage 3 – Compliance

A Statement of Compliance is  required to allow registration of the subdivision at the Titles Office and obtain release of the new titles by the Titles Office.

Compliance requires all the conditions of the Planning Permit  being met. This will include construction of any drainage and vehicle crossings, and payment to all Servicing Authorities for water/sewerage/drainage/electricity supply.

Council will only issue the Statement of Compliance after it has received a letter from each Servicing Authority and carried out a final inspection of the site.

Costs

See this post:  Subdivision Costs

 

Also see Battle Axe Block

 

Tree Roots in Sewers and Drains

If  you are wondering what this photo is about, its been taken from the inside of a 100mm sewer pipe with a CCTV camera.

What it shows is the pipe is almost completely blocked with roots that have penetrated the pipe joints.

If you think all these roots are quite thin then have a look at this Root that has been cut out of a sewer, compared with a 50c coin.

Just remember these photos before you plant a big tree in that Easement in your property.

Most water authorities produce guides of suitable things to plant near sewers and drains, Thia is a link to: Melbourne Water’s Guide.

 

Plasterboard

A lot of people say Gyprock, but this is really a manufacturers name, so the correct name is Plasterboard.

So plasterboard is plasterboard right?……………………Actually wrong there are quite a wide range of plasterboard options available.

Perhaps you should consider alternative products if you are having a custom house built.

Even if you are using a project builder it might even be worth seeing if you could upgrade the plasterboard for certain rooms like the Home Theatre.

Here are some of the plasterboard options available, at extra cost:

  • Reduced Noise Transmittance Uses denser materials to increase acoustic resistance.
  • Improved Noise Absorption Mainly for use on ceilings to avoid that echo effect you can get with rooms with lots of hard surfaces.
  • Increased Impact Resistance Could be just the thing for children’s rooms and staircases.
  • Better Water Resistance Just the thing for bathrooms and laundries.
  • Higher Fire Resistance A good option to help protect your house from a garage fire.
  • Flexible Boards Good if you prefer gentle curves rather than square corners.

Want to find out more………… both ‘Gyprock’ and ‘Boral’ have comprehensive websites with lots of information.

 

For similar posts see Selection

 

Sink or Cook Top on Island


I see a lot of island kitchens in display homes and when visiting friends……..one thing that puzzles me is that they all have the sink in the island unit.

In my opinion it’s better to have  the cooktop on the island (like the above photo) and the sink under a window, or wall, for the following reasons:

  • If you are having friends round for a meal, or even just talking to the family, you will be facing them while you cook.
  • Because of the extra pipe distance to get to the island bench it generally takes a long time for the hot water to get to the mixer.
  • Washing pans, or peeling veggies, are tasks where you don’t need to concentrate so its nice to look out of the window.

One problems is  you will  have less choice when it comes to range hoods, and perhaps need a more powerful model for the same effect.

If you really want a sink on the island, have the main one elsewhere but have a smaller sink at one end of the island. You will probably only need cold water to this sink but make sure you have a high outlet, so its easy to fill pans with water.

 

For similar posts see Selection

 

Thanks to Galloway Granite for the photo.

Why Double Brick

Double Brick is the most common method of construction in WA.

Construction consists of two panels (sometimes called leaves) of masonry with a cavity between them. The panels are connected by steel ties at regular intervals.

A better description would be Structural Masonry, Cavity Construction. which also includes using limestone, rendered brick and concrete block for the external face, and brick or concrete block for the internal leaf. (The photo shows a brick external leaf connected to a concrete block inner leaf by a wire tie)

The purpose of the cavity between the outside leaf of brick and the inside leaf is so that moisture doesn’t penetrate into the home. In more sustainable homes this cavity is partially or fully filled with insulation.

Internal walls are usually a single brick thickness and generally use a 2nds brick or concrete block that is plastered or lined using a lining board.

Advantages

  • It is extremely durable requiring very little maintenance.
  • The mass of the brickwork can help moderate the internal temperature of the dwelling
  • You can place a heavy fixing anywhere on the walls.

Disadvantages

  • More expensive than Brick Veneer.
  • Not as well insulated.
  • The house will take a long time to warm up in winter or cool down once it does get hot.
  • Likely to crack if subjected to ground movement.

 

Also see:  Brick Veneer.

See this link for more posts:  Bricks

 

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