As well as the more common pressure pumps you will frequently see submersible pumps at your local supplier . . . . . So what’s the difference?
Characteristics of Submersible Pumps:
Most domestic submersible pumps come with an attached float switch which switches the pump on when the water level rises, and off before it runs dry.
They’re Quiet The surrounding water absorbs any noise.
Don’t Need Priming As the pump sitsunder the water it doesn’t need to be primed, which also improves efficiency.
Rarely Block These are centrifugal pumps, which can pass reasonably large solid particles.
Pump From Bottom of Tank/Well Useful for emptying things, but bad if you need the best water quality (The worst water is typically at the bottom of a tank see: Understanding Tank Water Quality)
Uses
Best for transferring water in constant flow rate applications such as:
Emptying tanks
In a sump to keep basements dry
Pumping Storm Water
Pumping Grey Water
Irrigation systems (make sure there is a filter smaller than any nozzles)
Make sure you get the correct size pump, see: Pump Size
Grey Water includes all the waste water from the house with the exception of toilet waste. (Black Water)
It can includes water from; Washing Machine, Dishwasher, Sink, Wash Basin, and Shower.
A basic grey water reuse scheme sending washing machine water using a two way diverter valve to a perforated hose will cost less than $100. A top-of-the-range system, taking all the grey water, with treatment and pumps can cost $2-4,000.
Advantages
It’s available all year round whether it rains or not.
A basic system is inexpensive.
Disadvantages
You are not supposed to use grey water on root crop plants in your veggie plots because of bacterial contamination.
You shouldn’t store grey water as it is likely to go Septic and smell.
A lot of grey water contains too many nutrients for native plants.
Many common domestic soaps are high in sodium which can cause soil problems with long term use.
Summary
Because of its disadvantages I really regard grey water as a last resort rather than a main garden watering system.
If you have a veggie plot, or a lawn, one of the more basic systems will help you in times of drought, so I wouldn’t go for one of the top of the range systems.
If you are intending to use grey water make sure you use an eco friendly laundry liquid such as Earth Choice.
A better alternative is to make sure you get the right size of rainwater tank so follow this link: Rainwater Tank Size
In spite of the architectural detailing this is a lesson on how to stuff up shading!
Its less than an hour from Midday and already most of the window is out of the shade.
If you want to know how to do it properly see this post: Northern Windows.
Condensation, a minor inconvenience, or a major problem?
A little condensation on windows is easily dealt with, . . . . . . but heavy condensation in poorly ventilated corners can lead to mould damaging your walls, ceilings, or even your clothes.
Why does Condensation Occur
Condensation in a building occurs when warm air, containing water vapour, comes into contact with a cold surface.
As the air cools it can’t hold as much water vapour so the excess changes into liquid water which is deposited on the cold surface.
The water usually appears as surface condensation as water droplets or water film on cold surfaces, typically windows.
Condensation occurring on cold walls and ceilings is a major issue as it is when mold problems start. Of particular risk are wardrobes on an external wall as there is a cold surface and a lack of ventilation.
Sources of Water
Here are five main sources of water vapour in the home
People –A typical adult will lose around 0.8L/day of water, half from skin evaporation, and half from breathing.
Bathrooms –Not just the obvious showers and baths, its also those drying towels and bathrobes
Kitchen – Kettles, Pans, dishwasher, and the microwave will add water vapour
Un-Flued Combustion – Portable Gas Heaters, Gas Hobs, Bio Ethanol Heaters, even Candles, all emit water vapour into the room as they burn.
Laundry – Unvented Tumble driers, Airing Clothes.
Evaporative Cooling – Because it is mainly used in summer less of a problem, but can be an issue on cold nights.
Preventing Condensation Damage
Action to prevent condensation damage involves looking at both insulation and ventilation.
Insulation. Additional insulation in walls or ceiling will keep those surfaces warmer which will reduce the risk of condensation damage in most rooms .
Ventilation In bathrooms and kitchens the more moisture laden air means that insulation by itself will not be enough. The moist air needs to be effectively extracted to prevent condensation being an issue. (Although I have previously posted about Heat Loss due to Ventilation some ventilation is needed throughout the house)
Role of Double Glazing
Double glazing is often suggested as an answer to condensation however this is not really the case. As the windows are now less cold there is less surface condensation on the windows, so it looks like the issue has gone away. The problem is that without removing the moisture laden air the risk of condensation on walls and ceilings is increased.
See this link to find out why I prefer a separate Extraction fan in the Bathroom: 3 in 1 Bathroom Heaters
To keep moisture out of the insulation materials see this link: Vapour Barriers
There is a lot of rubbish talked by big builders about sustainability costing you more!
In my opinion considering sustainable design for your new home will save you money as well as the environment. Here are three reasons why:
Size
A key sustainability principle is to minimise the use of resources. Getting a Smaller House means you save money on materials. The smaller house also has less wall and roof area where heat is lost. Reducing the size by 20% should reduce heat transfer through the roof by the same amount, and reduce the heat transfer through walls by around 10%.
Orientation
Getting the Correct Orientation can add an extra star to the house energy rating at no extra cost, which is going to save on your heating and cooling costs. It will also fill your house with light without causing overheating in summer.
Right Sizing Windows
Windows are the least effective element of the house as far as heat transfer is concerned, even if double glazed. Most windows are also much bigger than they need to be. Reducing windows on the West and East of the house and reducing the size on the South is normally a no cost option.
Get these things right and you will be saving money on the mortgage, and on your heating and cooling bills.
When I saw this Billboard the other day I had turn round to drive past it again, as I didn’t believe it the first time!
They are making it appear that it’s a big deal that they are selling what are the worst blocks on the estate!
A North Facing Block mean that the house gets very little warming sun during winter, as half the front of the house will probably be garage door.
A typical house will also have lots of East and West facing windows which will really soak up summer sun making the house a real sweatbox. With winter there will be no sun coming in but lots of heat going out through those windows.
It just goes to show that if you want honest advice don’t rely on Real Estate Agents or Land Developers.
To find out which way to face is best see Orientation
One of the reasons why most rainwater systems use too much power is because because the pump is too big. For other reasons see Rainwater – Pump Issues
Most pump suppliers and design charts will specify a larger pump than you really need (They sell a more expensive pump, It’s less likely that the pump will be returned because it isn’t big enough, and they aren’t paying the power bill)
If you want to pick the most economic pump here is how to go about it.
Instantaneous Flow
What is the most flow you need at any one time. Here are some figures for typical house fittings.
Fitting
Flow Litres/min
Tap
10 to 15
Tap with Flow Restrictor
4 to 6
Low Flow Shower
7 to 9
Washing Machine*
4 to 10
Dishwasher
4 to 6
Toilet
3 to 5
Garden Sprinkler**
10 to 15
*To get to the lower figure you will need to close the supply valve this will add a few minutes to the wash but will help with issues like Water Hammer.
**It’s really better to irrigate the garden with a separate pump.
Add together the highest flow rate fittings that you think you will want to run together, which will give you a Total Flow Rate ‘Q’
Pressure
You need to aim for a pressure at the fitting of around 150kPa (15m of Head)
To get this pressure you need to:
Measure the height of the furthest fitting above the lowest level in the tank ‘Hs)
Calculate the Pressure Loss ‘Hf‘ due to Friction in the pipes See table below
Max Flow Rate Litres/min
Hf m head per 100m of pipe
20
25
32
40
12
10.9
3.7
1.2
0.4
24
13.4
3.9
1.3
36
8.3
2.8
The Required Pump Pressure is then calculated from:
Required Pump Head ‘P‘ m = 15 +Hs + Hf
Or Required Pump Head ‘P‘ KPa = 150 +(Hs +Hf)) x 10
Ordering
To order a pump you just need to quote the Total Flow and Required Pump Head
When you are ordering a pump think about getting a Pressure Tank