Stormwater – Kerb Discharge

If you are going to build on an existing house block you will probably have a planning permit condition that storm water must discharge to an approved point.

If there is no surface water system one option can be to discharge to the street.

This is normally by constructing a proper kerb outlet like the photo below:



But not like this dodgy installation on the right!

Or even discharging over people walking along the path like the one illustrated in this post: Overflow Fail

A kerb connection can be at a reasonable cost as long as the house is above the road.

If the house is below the road you will need either:

or

  • A pump and storage for the storm water, which can add significantly to the build cost.

 

For more information on issues like this see Guide to Buying a Block

 

6 Reasons To Have A Pool

I recently posted on 6 Reasons Why I Won’t Have a Pool and got some comments back. . . . . . so here are some Alternative Views.

  1. Heat Relief – Dive in to cool off on a sweltering day. One suggestion I received was have a TV installed so you can watch it from the pool.
  2. Keeping Children Occupied  – Playing in the pool can keep children occupied for hours, and gets them away from the computer games.
  3. Relaxing –  The  resort effect can put you in a holiday mood.
  4. Exercise –  Even if the pool is not big enough to swim lengths there are  resistance exercises such as  Water Aerobics.
  5. Parties – Great location for family pool party.
  6. Emergencies – The pool water can be used to fight a bush fires. Pool water should only be used as a last resort as it can contaminate tank water, kill plants, and cause corrosion on unprotected steel.

I’m still not convinced, but if you think you might want a pool it should be considered before you buy a block and plan your home.

How Adverse Possession Can Affect Buying A Block

Did  you know its still possible to take over ownership of someone else’s private land?

This makes it important to check the Land Title Plan dimensions against the actual site dimensions of your new house block for the following reasons:

  • If the actual dimensions are bigger it doesn’t mean the seller owns the ‘extra’ land unless they can demonstrate adverse possession.
  • If the land is smaller a neighbour may have ‘acquired’  ownership by adverse possession.

Either way you could be in for a considerable amount of legal costs to get the ownership of the land sorted out.

Adverse Possession

Adverse Possession is when someone becomes the owner of land through continued exclusive use of that land.

Limitation Period

Before land can be obtained by adverse possession there has to be continued use use of the land for an extended period. That period is different for the various states as follows:

  • Victoria, 15 years
  • South Australia, 15 years
  • New South Wales, 12 years
  • Western Australia, 12 years
  • Tasmania, 12 years
  • Queensland, 12 years

Crown (Government) Land

With the exception of New South Wales and Tasmania you cannot claim Crown Land. In those two states a longer (30 year) limitation period applies.

The reasons are that it is harder for a government to keep an eye on its lands, and it is assumed that the government hold possessions for the public good, despite any apparent neglect.

How Adverse Possession Claims Work

Adverse possession means not mere occupation but also actual physical possession in an open and peaceful manner, without consent of the original owner.

Any form of permission ( a licence, a lease, or an agreement to use the land), and the claim of adverse possession will fail because it will be clear that the owner gave consent for use with no intention to pass over ownership.

Proof to the Titles Office in your State that the land has been  occupied for the entire period of time is required.  

Evidence will be, that as a minimum, at least one of the following has occurred for the whole of the limitation period :

  • A secure fence has been in place without challenge ;
  • ‘Keep Out, Private Land’ signs have been erected without challenge;
  • Payment of rates and taxes.

The information in this post is of a general nature and you should not try to deal with adverse possession issues without involving a lawyer.

 

For more Information why not look at: anewhouse Guide to Buying a Block

 

 

 

Floor Space Ratio, or Plot Ratio

When you are buying a new house block it’s important you understand how much of the block you can build on!

One way in which NSW councils prevent Over development is by prescribing a ‘Floor Space Ration’ (FSR). The same principle applies in WA but is called ‘Plot Ratio’.

The FSR of buildings on a site is the ratio of  ‘Gross Floor Area’ to Total Site Area.

Gross Floor Area is defined as – The sum of the internal floor area of each floor of a building  measured at a height of 1.4 m above the floor.

It includes  habitable rooms in a basement or an attic.

It excludes:

  • Stairs
  • Voids above a floor in 2 storey properties.
  • Non habitable storage including basement areas
  • Vehicular access and car parking
  • Terraces / Balconies with outer walls less than 1.4 metres high, and

To calculate, you multiply the site area by the FSR ratio.

For example

For a 800sqm site and a FSR of 0.5:1

Maximum Floor Space = 800 x 0.5 =  400sqm.

See Restrictions for  more posts  about what you can do on your land

 

 

Habitable Rooms

What is a Habitable Room?

You see the phase in several planning and building documents with regard to things like Ceiling Height (see Room Height) and  Overlooking.

Well according to the Building Code of Australia (BCA)

A Habitable Room is ” A room used for normal domestic activities”

Habitable Rooms Include: 

  • Living / Lounge / Family rooms
  • Bedrooms
  • Television Room/Home Theater
  • Kitchen
  • Dining Room
  • Sewing Room/Study
  • Music Room
  • Playroom/Family Room
  • Sunroom

Habitable Room Normally Excludes:

  • Bathrooms / Ensuites / Toilets
  • Laundry/Clothes Drying Room
  • Pantry
  • Walk-in Wardrobe
  • Corridor/Hallway/Lobby
  • and “Other spaces of a specialised nature occupied neither frequently nor for extended periods.”

 

Also see  Overlooking

Protecting Underground Pipes

One of the problems that happen all too often during a new house build is that Sewers and Drains get filled with concrete.

Its normally happens on:

  • A knock down and rebuild project where the sewer connection wasn’t sealed during demolition.
  • A Battle Axe block subdivision where the new home is built close to the pipeline.

During the pouring of the foundations the concrete gets into the pipeline through the unsealed connection, or a cracked pipe, and then flows along the pipe.

Our company then gets brought in to remove the concrete using a hyraulic impact cutter like this.

Don’t think its cheap though . . . . . . It normally takes a team of three plus a high pressure jetting truck so the costs is upwards of $200 an hour, and its not unusual for one job to take 2-3 days.

To understand more issues when purchasing land see: Buying a Block

 

Different Soil Classification Results

When you look at a new house block its always worth asking the Developer’s Agent what the Soil Classification is ……….. Only don’t take what you are told too seriously!

Usually the developers opinion is going to be that the site is going to be better (lower site costs) than your builder.

To understand why you need to consider the differing situations of the Developer and the Builder.

The Developer

  • May have done 20 or 30 tests over the whole development.
  • Is mostly interested in selling blocks
  • Since the tests were taken has had sewers and drains constructed on the site.
  • Probably done some spreading of fill from roadworks construction and site leveling

The Builder

  • Has had 3 tests done on your block.
  • Knows that even with the three tests the information represents less than 0.01% of the soil under your block.
  • Want to be sure the foundations are strong enough.
  • Want to avoid claims, from you, for foundation movement causing structural cracks.

If I got a soil classification from a Developer I would ask the Builder what extra site costs would be required for that soil, and then budget for at least another $5,000.

 

For lots more information why not get the Guide to Buying a Block only $4 at this link: Buying a Block

Small Strata Developments

A small strata development is a way of retaining an existing house and providing a rear Block. It is an alternative to a Battle Axe Block. This plan shows a typical Small Strata Development.

With this type of development there are 3 Titles as follows:

  • A block title, of reduced size for the original house
  • A block title for the new block shown in red on the plan
  • An area of common title which is jointly owned by the owners of both blocks

So what  are the issues if you are thinking of buying the back block for you new home?

Driveway

  • If the common driveway is completed it may well get damaged during construction.
  • Getting agreement about driveway repair can be difficult.
  • Getting agreement from your neighbour to use the access for during construction can be difficult.
  • Sharing a driveway means that your parking options are limited and can lead to disputes.
  • Looking after the shared driveway is like some of the
    Community Title
     issues.

Additional Service Costs

You will be need to bring in some, if not all, of the following service for an extra 20-30m.

  • Power.
  • Phone.
  • Water, could be two services if you want recycled water.
  • Gas, if it is available.
  • Storm water drainage, can be a problem if property drains to road.

The sewer is usually at the back of the block but check before you buy.

Additional Building Costs

I have heard additional building costs of more than $15,000 for these blocks because they are Restricted Sites

 

Lots more information in the anewhouse Guide to Buying a Block for only $4

See Blocks for more information on buying land.

 

Buying a Block

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Posts from this Blog and Much More.

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Drop Edge Beams

If you want to build your new home on a slope you may need to have the additional cost of needing drop edge beams on the low side of the slabs.

These are a sort of retaining wall to hold the fill under the house slab as shown in the drawing below.

Here is a photo of a typical drop edge beam before the brickwork has been started.

Costs (2013) are in the order of $500-$700/sqm of beam, plus the cost of the fill under the slab.

Say. . . $12,000 to $18,000 for a 20m long house with a 1.5m drop beam so a significant extra!

The photo below shows the same wall after the brickwork has been completed.


If you are building on a slope you may also want to know about Retaining Wall Fairness

Thanks to Grumblebum54 for the photos
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